A time for apricots
Plus Anna Jones' superb peanut and aubergine stew
I’ve tried to make…
…more of a conscious effort this year to celebrate seasonal produce. To slow things down by really appreciating a few ingredients at their peak. So Seville oranges for marmalade-making in January, forced rhubarb in a sour cream sponge in February, spring greens sautéed with garlic and fresh lemon then served with grilled fish and dal in March. April was watercress soup; I served lots of asparagus served simply with butter in May. June brought strawberries eaten whole and now it’s July and I’m going dotty over fresh apricots in a way I never have before.
I have found some delicious, organic ones that have just the right level of tartness and B absolutely loves them as a snack. So do I. But the other morning, finding myself woken by C at 4am and unable to get back to sleep, I just set about making Sally Clarke’s apricot & vanilla jam taken from her recipe book First put on your apron, which I love.
I had macerated the quartered apricots in sugar for a day and a night so just set the gas quietly going and gently allowed the sugar to melt while drinking a cup of tea. I washed and sterilised a handful of jars, switched on the radio and applied a bit of my marmalade-making knowledge to Sally’s recipe. She’s brilliant because she holds your hand and notes the small details (such as not carelessly stirring sugar up the sides of the pan where it will burn). But I had learned before not to overcook jam nor allow that rolling boil ‘coca cola’ like stage to go on too long. I’d heartily recommend a thermometer, which avoids the faff of chilling saucers to test for a set. I’m going to make another batch this week. Here’s to jam!
Summer #12
Friday: Floured and fried hake with salad and new potatoes. Made fresh chicken stock using organic chicken wings and veg (parsley, carrot, onion, peppercorns)
Saturday: Diana Henry’s South American chicken with rice and black beans
Sunday: Homemade flatbread, cheese, ham and salad
Monday: Greek fakes lentil soup with feta
Tuesday: Anna Jones’ aubergine and peanut stew with pink onions and brown rice
Wednesday: Leftovers
Thursday: Fish fingers, brown rice, broccoli, ginger and garlic, shallots and sweetcorn in a take on Nigella’s fish finger bhorta
I shared Diana Henry’s South American chicken recipe before. The fresh chicken stock makes it extra special but it works perfectly well with store cupboard stock.
Same with the Greek fakes. A brilliant recipe from Anastasia Miari’s book Yia Yia that I now return to time again.
Anna Jones’ peanut and aubergine recipe from her book One Pot, Pan, Planet was a new dish for me and a real winner. My main takeaway was to fry the aubergine in some oil initially and not dry fry it. So long as it’s over a high heat, it will caramelise beautifully and avoids ruining your favourite pan (the charred bits were hard to get off). BUT with that small adjustment and by omitting the scotch bonnet chilli and teaspoon of cayenne powder, you have a nutritious family meal. It also did two evenings. (The boys also were less keen on the pink pickled onions but I’m giving that one time!)
I did a version of Nigella’s bhorta in a hurry and it worked nicely. Again, omitting the chillies.